French-Style Brown-Butter New Potatoes

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French-Style Brown-Butter New Potatoes

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1 stick unsalted butter (4 ounces, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 pound small new potatoes, rinsed
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 sprigs fresh thyme or rosemary (optional)
2 garlic cloves (optional)
Sliced chives, for serving
Crème fraîche, for serving

In a medium (3-quart) saucepan or saucier, melt butter over medium heat. Add potatoes, a healthy pinch of salt, and pepper to taste. Cook, swirling saucepan and stirring frequently with a heat-resistant spatula while butter hisses and pops. Make sure potatoes remain in a single, even layer in the saucepan while cooking. Continue cooking and stirring until butter begins to foam rapidly and turns golden yellow, 5 to 8 minutes. Swirling a saucepan with potatoes and butter. Reduce heat to medium-low; add herbs and garlic (if using). Continue stirring and turning potatoes occasionally to promote even browning. At this point, the butter should be golden brown. Regulate heat so butter simmers at a very gentle bubble and foams up when you stir it. (Depending on the strength of your burner, you may need to reduce heat from medium-low to low.) Continue cooking until potatoes are completely tender (poke a potato with a sharp paring knife or cake tester to test for doneness) and deep golden brown, about 45 minutes. Remove from heat and let potatoes rest for 5 minutes in the saucepan. Toss potatoes to coat them in brown butter. Use a slotted spoon to transfer to a serving bowl; reserve brown butter. Drizzle as much brown butter as you like over the potatoes and sprinkle with chives (if you like) and sea salt to taste. Serve immediately with crème fraîche for dipping.
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